Apr 08

To celebrate the end of the 2006-07 school year, I treated myself to a 'dream trip' to France and Germany. After taking scores of business trips for work, it was time to do some pleasure traveling. Since I hadn't visited France or Germany since 1995, it was time to explore and experience as much as possible in two weeks.

This would be the first time I'd rented a car and drove in Europe, and I was quite nervous about the prospect of driving in another country. Since about 1990 I've driven automatic shift cars---how would I handle driving a little box-like stick shift Fiat 'Panda' through the narrow streets of France and Germany? I was about to find out!
Day 1---May 6---Arrival in Paris, Proivns, Chartres, Loire Valley
Landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport at 9 a.m. on May 6. Early a.m. rain gave way to an overcast, cool breezy day. Rented my car through an agency and was forced to pick up my car from a hotel. The car rental clerk couldn't have been more than 21, and absolutely refused to speak English. His snobby attitude annoyed me as we inspected the car and he gave me instructions (completely in French-I understood nothing) on rental policies and procedures in the parking lot. I hadn't driven a standard shift vehicle in over 15 years, and the rental agent must have felt some smug satisfaction from watching me stall the car repeatedly leaving the car park.

So the adventure began! Driving the Paris 'beltway' in a standard shift car in heavy traffic trying to read signs I couldn't understand wasn't my idea of great fun. I eventually followed signs directing me away from Paris and to my first destination, Provins


Provins, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a remarkably well preserved medieval town about an hour's drive from Paris. In the middle ages, Provins was actually the third largest 'city' in France, right behind Paris and Rouen. It was largely spared destruction during the first two world wars and now serves its function as medieval theme park-like Orlando's 'medieval times'-but the real thing!



It has everything you'd expect in a well-preserved village---churches, turreted city walls, towers, half-timbered buildings, museums, etc. It also features mock 'tournaments' and medieval fairs. It's extremely touristy, but also worth a visit or side trip from Paris.
After several hours in Provins, it was time to hop back in the car and head to Chartres, about a couple of hours away. The drive was memorable and I enjoyed the tree-lined, pastoral scenery as I approached Chartres. The Cathedral becomes visible from well outside of the city and it dominates the skyline for miles.

Chartres is known as perhaps the greatest gothic Cathedral in France, and its amazing stained glass is its star. Its incomparable stained glass and rose windows, flying buttresses and statued portals are awe inspiring. Standing in the cathedral is like standing in a jewelbox, especially when the light hits the glass and the interior is covered with a spectrum of light. I stayed here for two hours, wandering through its interior and exterior, trying to take it all in just in case I never get back. Leaving Chartres, I proceeded into the Loire Valley, I made it to Blois, where I stayed the night. Driving/parking in Blois (still medieval in its street layout) was an abslolute nightmare, and most of the streets didn't permit two way driving and were only wide enough to squeeze through. Add to this that I still was having trouble figuring out how to get my car in reverse (figured it out under pressure as oncoming cars forced me to figure it out fast!) In town, my charming little hotel restored 14th century inn featured steep, winding stairs and tiny little doorways that invited you to bang your head! I did this multiple times...
I took a pleasant evening drive alongside the Loire, thrilled to be driving alongside this famous, historic, castle dotted river. After 20 minutes, I reached Chaumont Chateau, perched high atop the Loire. It's about 1/4 mile walk from the parking lot to the chateau, so I got my exercise. The reward for the hike is worth the effort, and seeing the chateau with all its turrets and its sweeping view of the Loire made this a satisfying ending to my first day in France


I stayed here until dusk, then drove back to Blois in the dark. It had been a succesful and satisfying first day in France...and it was only the beginning.

Day 2---Loire Valley---Amboise, the Clos Luce, Loches, Villandry, Saumur, Usse, and Chinon
My first full day in the Loire Valley began without a plan. There were certain places I wanted to visit and I knew I had two full days in the area, so it was time to start driving and see where the road led...all I knew was I was going to have a full day of castle hopping! My day began with driving alongside the Loire River. Passing Chaumont I saw signs pointing to Amboise. Amboise wasn't really on my itinerary, but I'd heard of it and it looked interesting, so I went off to explore.

Amboise chateau is really a mere shadow of its former self

---much of it was destroyed during the French Revolution---which is a shame. However, there is enough left to tour and the grounds are quite beautiful. Most importantly, Amboise is the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci.

His remains (what are left of them) are buried in a tiny chapel outside the chateau guarded by menacing gargoyles.

Truthfully, aside from Leonardo's remains, I was a tiny bit disappointed with Amboise. However it's majestic view over the Loire River and the enchanting little medieval town of Amboise made the visit worthwhile.



There's another interesting sight in Amboise about 3 km from the Chateau. There's a renaissance mansion called the Clos Luce where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final several years.


Winding my way through the alleyways (they really can't be called roads) of Amboise, I reached the Clos Luce. I enjoyed this more than the chateau! I'm a huge Leonardo fan---I like smart people! It was fun to see his bedroom, workshop, and replicas of many of his major works of art. There are splendid gardens and a museum that highlights many of the inventions he devised while living here.

Outside, there is a beautiful park with lifesized replicas of many of Leonardo's innovations---many which we know of (his flying machine, etc) but others, like a prototype of a tank and submarine, are lesser known. Each exhibit has a little soundbox that explains what the invention is and what is was supposed to do.

There are also exhibits explaining da Vinci's painting style, and what made is artwork so memorable.

After the Clos Luce, my next itinerary stop was the tiny town of Loches.


This is one of the best preserved old villages in the Loire Valley.

Leaving Loches, my next stop was Villandry Chateau, which I had been wanting to see for a long time because it is home to the finest formal garden in all of France.

The chateau interior is lavish and is what you'd expect from a chateau, but the gardens are the star here.

Immaculately maintained, the gardens are terraced and include a water garden, hedge maze, waterfalls, and of course the famous flowers and hedges. These heart shaped hedges are famous.

One of the great things about the Loire Valley is how close all these world class sights are to each other. Most are only about 10-30 km apart. The driving was also lots of fun though sometimes challenging because navigating the tiny, narrow streets of little villages and many steep hills forced me to be on my toes (all the while trying not to stall my car!---I still wasn't used to the standard shift yet)

After a brief stop at Azay le Rideau (I should have taken the tour, but arrived too late),

I drove to Usse Chateau, which wins my prize for a favorite in the Loire Valley---this is actually what 'Sleeping Beauty's' castle was inspired by.

It's setting is lovely, and there's a little brook lined with willow trees and green fields right next to the chateau that make the place feel enchanted! I walked along the wooden bridge and told myself I'd come back the next day if I had the chance...

Next up was Saumur---another castle I longed to see because I have a huge painting of this chateau at home (it's my favorite) The chateau (it doesn't look as splendid as it does in my painting) crowns the town of Saumur---the view of the chateau across the Loire River is stunning. I drove to Saumur and had a look around, then climbed in my car for my final stop of the day, Chinon.

Chinon is filled with history. It was the favorite castle of the Plantaganet dynasty of England/France, and also the first place Joan of Arc was ever seen.

Chinon castle was a little disappointing. The walls are in tact, and a couple of the towers still stand, and the view of the town and the Loire is outstanding. However, there really isn't much to see in the Chateau---it's mostly ruins, and doesn't look like it did in the movie 'The Lion in Winter' (great film!) which was set here.

Still, I'm glad I saw it, and the ancient town of Chinon is well worth a visit even without the castle.

So that wrapped up my first day of castle hopping in the Loire Valley. It had been a full day filled with great sights.
Now for a funny but slightly embarassing story. I didn't return to Blois until about 10 p.m. and my gas tank was below the 'E' on the gas gauge. I desperately looked for an open gas station, but found none, and those I did find didn't accept my credit card. Finally, in the distance, I saw a couple of gas stations. Except I ran out of gas first! At a busy intersection with cars coming. Freaked out to say the least, I put the car in neutral and had just enough momentum to park out of the way. I was forced to fill up two empty 1 liter bottles of diet coke with gas----just enough to get me back to my hotel---I've ran out of gas three times in my lifetime, and this was just not the place or time for it to happen =( But it all ended well...I caught my breath, had a good night's sleep, and got ready for another big day...

May 8---Day 3---Chambord, Chenonceau, Fontrevault Abbey, Poitiers
Waking up in Blois and banging my head a final time on the too small doorway, I was off (to get gas first) then to world famous, amazing, stupendous Chambord---the most famous and impressive of all the Loire Chateaux

It's said that Leonardo da Vinci was the architect of this 'hunting lodge' built for Francois I, France's Renaissance King (he wrestled with Henry VIII) Far more than a hunting lodge, this is simply an awesome feat of architecture.
I get thrills when I travel, but few compare to what I feel when I've longed to see something for over 20 years, seen countless photos, and then...there it is!

Being the history nerd I am I made sure I got up early so I'd be one of the first people there. It turns out I was THE first person there and amazingly the only person in the castle for about 10 minutes before the first tour groups started arriving. So I had Chambord all to myself, if only for a brief moment!

The castle met and exceeded my expectations, and I was giddy from the experience of climbing among the towers atop the castle by myself!
After a couple of hours, it was time to depart, but what a time I had...
Next stop on the agenda was the second most memorable Loire Chateau, which I'd visited on a school trip in '88.
Chenonceau



The beauty of this castle is breathtaking, and it is elegant and understated as Chambord is grand and bold.

From Chenonceau, I proceeded to drive to Fontrevault Abbey, south of Saumur.

The abbey is the burial place of two former kings of England, Henry II and his son Richard the Lion Heart.


This abbey was a must see for me since I really enjoy English history and knew much about the royalty that is buried here.

This is one of the best examples of a medieval abbey and monestery, and it is extremely well preserved. After visiting the abbey, I headed an hour south to Poitiers, famous for the battle of Poitiers in the Hundred Years War that was one of the greatest military routs in history. In 1356, A small group of English defenders annihilated the entire French army and took the French king hostage.

There isn't much left of the battlefield, but there are many well preserved historic buildings in Poitiers' city center.


Some date back to the Romans, who originially settled here.

The drive to Poitiers was scenic and beautiful---the road I took really highlighted the best of rural France. It was one of those perfect afternoons, with ideal temperatures and not a cloud in the sky. Leaving Poitiers, I drove to Saumur, where I spent the night.

May 9---Day 4---Angers, Mont St. Michel, Dinan, St. Malo
This morning I made the short drive to Angers, which features an outstanding castle, surprisingly impressive cathedral---and an extraordinary series of medieval tapestries.
My first stop was the cathedral, which was delightful

Then it was off to the castle, which was unique and its architecture is much different from the other Loire Chateaux. Clearly this castle is hundreds of years older than most of those on the Loire.

I had fun climbing among the turrets and enjoying the view

Inside the castle is the world famous Apocalypse Tapestry series, which was phenomenal! A major trip highlight...




After Angers, I made the long drive through Brittany to one of the greatest sights in all of Europe.
The Mont St. Michel







After the Mont St. Michel, I drove an hour south to Dinan, which is one of Brittany’s most charming little towns. This was one of the best-preserved small towns I’ve ever seen.

There were so many half timbered houses, many of them built on stilts. There is a long, cobblestone pedestrian street in Dinan called the Jeruzal that is straight out of a fairy tale.



It winds its way steeply downhill from the town’s center to the river, and is filled with timber framed houses, art galleries, shops and medieval towers. This was probably the most quaint, beautifully well-preserved street I’ve experienced in all my European travels. The river is also incredibly picturesque, filled with boats and lined with woods.

Leaving Dinan and heading north, my next destination was St. Malo, a walled city that sits on a tidal marsh on the north Breton coast.


Much of it has been rebuilt since World War II, when it was largely destroyed. Yet it’s an interesting stop, and it’s fun to walk among the cobblestone streets. When the rains came, it was time to leave St. Malo and after a scenic coastal drive it was time to enter Normandy via Coutances,

home to an outstanding gothic cathedral and famed botanical garden.

May 10---Normandy
Awoke to a windy, cool, overcast day in Coutances (I love these kinds of days) and made my way to the Cathedral first thing in the morning.

The next stop was Bayeux to see the famous Bayeux Tapestry, which documents William the Conqueror’s journey to the English throne via military victory over the Saxon King Harold.

The tapestry is much smaller in size than I’d imagined (it is long, not wide), and it winds its way 600 feet through the dark exhibition hall. This was a thrilling site to see---nearly 1,000 years old, the tapestry is in excellent condition and has so much detail! The audio guide does a great job of explaining the action---however I felt a little rushed by the audio tour. As I neared the end of the viewing hall---after William had won the battle and become king, I whipped out my camera hoping for a quick, flash free shot---OOOOOPS! A siren as loud as those from an ambulance rang out and about 100 sets of eyes turned to me, flushed red with embarrassment. There must be some sensor that can detect a lens cover opening, because that’s all I’d done! So I darted at warp speed out the nearest doorway, and Dave the picture bandit left empty handed! But that’s OK, at least I left with a good story!
Bayeux is also a charming little town that was largely spared the ravages of World War II because it was the first town liberated by allied soldiers on D-Day. The cathedral is brilliant,

and there are many charming Norman style homes and mills here.

Leaving Bayeux, it was time to head to Omaha Beach at Coleville Sur Mer. I couldn’t help but think of the movie ‘Saving Private Ryan’ en route. I had anticipated a brief stop here. Snap a couple of pictures, see the cemetery, move on.

Maybe spend ½ hour to an hour. Wrong! I’m so glad I did see the Speilberg film before my visit because it made me want to see everything, trying to imagine what the troops must have seen---

I wound up spending at least a couple of hours walking the beach, climbing the steep bluffs (astonished that anyone could survive being totally exposed like that, fired at in the wide open. I explored German pillboxes, and finally wandering the American Cemetery. Rarely have I been so full of thought---saw a couple of amputee veterans in wheelchairs visiting graves of fallen comrades, and I’ll never forget the sea of crosses and stars overlooking the sea where so many gave their lives for the liberation of Europe.

After spending a worthwhile few hours at Coleville Sur Mer, it was on to Caen, a city almost completely destroyed by World War II. Its Abbey aux Hommes, built by William the Conqueror, also is home to his gravesite. William spent most of his life in Normandy, not England, even after he subjugated the Saxons in England. Leaving Caen, I headed northeast, to Honfleur, a picturesque seaside port on the Norman coast.

Honfleur offers everything a traveler could want in a well-preserved harbor town.

Its tall slate tiled buildings are distinctive, as are the timbered stilts which support their upper floors.

Honfleur boasts some great sights, a ship-shaped wooden cathedral,


wooden clock tower, medieval churches, narrow alleyways,


and a boat filled harbor that isn't easily forgotten! Many tourists miss Honfleur because it's a bit out of the way, but it is well worth a visit!
The rains came, giving me my cue to depart Honfleur and drive north to Trouville sur Mer, where I spent the night.

Northern France and Champagne
Awoke early in Trouville and made the short coastal drive to Etretat.

Anybody who's been to Epcot and seen the France film instantly recognizes Etretat and its white chalky cliffs, which are featured at the start of the film. Also memorable for me was the sound of the waves hitting the rocky shore and making a loud hiss as the waters receeded into the Atlantic.


After taking some photos and walking awkward on the beach of rocks, I just sat for a while. Maybe 1/2 hour, maybe longer. I don't know. I just remember a feeling of calm and serenity I rarely get. Closed my eyes and just listened to the tiny waves crash...

After my R&R at Etretat, it was back on the road to visit the tallest Gothic cathedral in the world, and easily one of the most impressive...Amiens. Amiens is actually a fairly large city, and I recall the stress of driving its streets to reach the Centre Ville. However, the cathedral, which I'd seen in so many photos, fulfilled all expectations. The height of its nave is awesome!

After Amiens, which is about 1 1/2 hours north of Paris, it was time to head south to Laon,

a well preserved, beautiful town that offers brilliant views of the Picardy countryside and a fine medieval center complete with a 12th century cathedral (which unfortunately was getting a facelift when I visited) But the inside was gorgeous, as was the stained glass.


I probably lost 5 pounds visiting Laon because I think I counted something like 500 stairs from my parking lot up to the city center. The effort was worth the reward, and I enjoyed this city a great deal.

From Laon, I drove from Picardy to Champagne, through so many of fields that had seen the most horrific battles of World Wars I and II. There are memorials everywhere in this region. Millions died on the trenches and in 'no-man's land' here...it's sobering to think of, and the frequent memorials serve as a reminder.

Finally I reached my destination for the evening---it had been a long day in the car---Reims. Its cathedral is arguably the most imporant in France---every French monarch was crowned here (except one) until the mid 1800's.

On their way in the front portal, this smiling angel greeted them all...

Reims was also great because I stayed in a woman's flat in the city centre. She was one of the classiest, most interesting French women I'd ever met, and we (sort of) conversed exclusively in French. She was really patient with my language 'skills'. Anyways, I enjoyed chatting with her (when we could understand eachother) over dinner and breakfast and then it was a fond farewell the next morning...

Reims and on to Paris
I spent the early a.m. exploring Reims outstanding cathedral and visiting its treasury/art museum, called the Palais du Tau. This museum contains many of the original sculptures from the cathedral, king's crown/coronation robes, treasure, and artwork. An excellent museum and a great stop. Wrapping up my Reims visit, it was back to Paris to return my car and return to my favorite city in the entire world. I've been here four times, and each trip has been completely different because there are so many things to do and experience that you don't need to repeat the same sights (unless you want to). So I vowed to do mostly 'new things' again.

Began my day with a picnic lunch at the Places des Vosges, where French Kings once resided. It's an enclosed courtyard that now serves dual function as public park. People watching here was a pleasure.
My first stop was the Carnavalet museum, the history museum of Paris, which contains many famous works of art and fascinating displays, like this model of old Paris...

much of the art was familiar from text and history books

Crossed the Seine after lunch and a stroll through the historic Marais district

Next stop was the Cluny museum in the Latin Quarter (also known as the Musee du Moyen Age). This is perhaps the greatest collection of medieval art anywhere.

It's most famous exhibit is the stunningly beautiful 'Lady and the Unicorn' tapestry set---the world's most famous medieval tapestries



These were a true trip highlight! The museum features many other beautiful works of art



Paris-Day 2
Awoke in my artsy hotel in Montmartre and made my way to the Champs Elysees for an early a.m. stroll. Crossed the Seine to the Orsay Museum (closed for the day-damn, that's my favorite!). So I 'settled' for a return visit to the Louvre.

Near first in line, I had many rooms to myself for the first 15-20 minutes of my visit. Then came the crowds!

I had a great time snapping photos of the world's greatest collection of art

even though I got scolded for taking this one,

Sorry! I wasn't using a flash, though...




They DON'T let you photograph the Mona Lisa, but I snapped many of Leonardo's other paintings




I really enjoyed my second visit here better than my first, and spent an enjoyable 2-3 hours until my feet were sore.